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This 2004 Ridge Lytton Springs has been aged to perfection.

For decades now, I’ve experienced both agony and ecstasy in the pursuit of the perfect wine.

Allow me to amend that last sentence, because I’m pretty sure that nothing is perfect. But, I am always searching for wines that surpass those that are considered to be good — or even excellent. Wines that go above and beyond expectations and become something more than a really pleasant quaff. These are bottles that are refined, and the wine in them is exquisite.

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John Brown is also a novelist. His two books — “Augie’s War” and “Augie’s World” — are available online and in bookstores around the state. The third book in the Augie Trilogy, “Augie’s Wine,” will be released later this year. You can find out more about his novels, and review all of his archived Vines & Vittles columns at wordsbyjohnbrown.com.